Island Hopping in Ganghwa-do (Day One)

I usually prefer to lead a blog entry with an exciting picture, but the best way to take this weekend is chronologically, so here goes. The first photo of Ganghwa Town main street is a bit of a game for you. Can you spot anything odd about it? The answer is at the bottom.

Last weekend, we continued our initiative to spend every second weekend doing something worthwhile, instead of just getting smashed. Don't get me wrong, getting smashed is also extremely worthwhile, just in a different way. This time, we decided to explore the relatively nearby islands of Ganghwa-do, an area rich in historical background and cultural significance. The main island of Ganghwa-do, is 305 square kilometers, and scattered throughout it's many mountains are numerous temples of great antiquity, several forts dating back to the last dynasty, and a pick n' mix of various other tombs, fortifications and prehistoric remains.

This was the first time we used Sinchon bus terminal in Seoul, and it was a delight to find it was merely a metal cabin, much like those things builders drink tea in, and decorate with musty Page 3 clippings. Of course, the machine refused to take any note that wasn't crisp and fresh off the print, so the gaggle of onlookers probably trumped it up to us being silly foreigners. Apparently, some Korean men believe themselves to be higher evolved than caucasians due to the lack of hair on their arms and hands! I'm sure to refute this claim by questioning a possible lack of testosterone would cause endless fun with some Korean men.

About an hour later we arrived in Ganghwa Town. The island is comprised of two extremes, vast areas of flat farmland separated by fairly high mountains. It also has a distinctly rural ambience, and was probably the first glimpses we've had of proper country living in Korea. The first thing that became clear, and this is not meant to sound nasty, obnoxious, or ignorant, is that there were a great deal more "special" people living out here. As you may have spotted in the picture above! It wasn't quite like a scene from Tod Browning's classic "Freaks", but it was certainly on a par with the likes of Carnoustie or Newbigging. An initial feeling of trepidation took hold, but we soon found out that the people of this fair island were some of the friendliest yet, and an Asian remake of "Deliverance" was not in the works.

Our first stop on our 2 day adventure, was an old cannon emplacement called Gapgot Dondae. This fortress segment is apparently extremely important, but unfortunately that doesn't always equate to extremely interesting. The one chucklesome moment is hearing how the French tried to steal a large bell during an abortive occupation attempt on the town, only to find it too heavy and ditch it as they ran to their ships. The pansies. Below are some cannons. BANG!

(From a hilltop at Gapgot Dondae, you can see the pastoral land of Ganghwa-do. We were very lucky with the wether yet again. Bloody cold though.)

After the disappointment of the first place, we set our sights on a tour down the East coast. Being lazy, we grabbed a taxi, and after getting the obligatory first question out of the way (Miguk saram? ....Anio, Sukoteulaendeu//American people? ....Nah Scottish), the chirpy driver proceeded to shower us with ginseng sweets and a useful map of the island. The next stop was another gun emplacement, called Gwangseongbo. It was constructed in 1656 and was the command centre for the other fortifications patrolling the coastline. All of these saw bloody action in 1866 against the French, then again 5 years later against the American Navy. Damn meddling Americans. The front gate was guarded by the most lethal of all military guards, the Korean Grandmother, of which there were two fine specimens.

(Instead of yet another picture of an admittedly impressive Korean gate, I thought the underside was much more interesting. Even if it did mean looking a fool by lying on my back to get it.)

(Daddy cannon, Mommy cannon, and Baby cannon. Aww. Can't imagine that end one doing much, you could probably catch it and throw the bastard back!)

(Of great interest to you all, is that, much like the rest of the world, it is Autumn now in Korea. And it is still definitively required to do at least one "Kimchi Pose" a week.)

(A congregation of around 25 ajoshis and not a soju bottle in sight. Has to be some sort of record. It's clear the guy seated bottom left at the very least necked some on the bus.)

(It was genuinely interesting to see the Korean country life. Most farmers seem to be really old, and I can't believe they're still toiling away like that. Some of them can't stand up straight and walk around at right angles. An angle not seen since "The Northy Bow"!)

After Gwangseongbo, we jumped on a bus headed for the tiny village of Onsu-ri, in the South of the island. Our destination was Samnangseong (Samnang Fortress), and in particular, the most famous temple on Ganghwa-do, Jeondeung-sa, which lies within the fortess. Upon exiting the bus, we were greeted with the now familiar steep ascent to the compound. The reason most temples are situated high on mountain slopes, is so the approach symbolizes an ascent from the mundane to the spiritual, a rise to a higher consciousness. Also, it is most commonly a very winding road, a reminder that the path to spirituality is neither straight nor easy. Many temples will require you to pass over a river or stream, a symbolic purification from the taint of the outside world. When I'd learned this, I cast my mind back to previous temple visits, and all of this was true. I may yet return a Buddhist monk. I've already got the haircut.

(This candle was in the window of a small restaurant close to the Fortress gate.)

(As always, a walk towards a temple is punctuated by many curious statues and structures)

(I'm not sure what the significance was to pushing this contraption, but the kid in the Dundee Utd shellsuit was absolutely loving it!)

According to legend, Samnang-seong was constructed in a single day by the 3 sons of Dan'gun. I really should know who Dan'gun is by now, but I refuse to cop out and go plagiarise Wikipedia. I think he is thought of as the creator of all Koreans, and that his father was a tiger, and his mother a bear. Which is cool. Although not confirmed, this could be the oldest fortress in South Korea, as Dan'gun's official birth date is 2333 B.C It has also featured prominently over the centuries in numerous important historical landmarks, but you don't want a history lesson, you just want some pictures, so I'll shut up.....

(A monk entering Yaksa-jeon, a hall dedicated to the Buddha of Medicine)

(The symbol of the fish is common in Buddhism, as it syboloizes many good things such as health and regeneration. I finally relented and bought myself one of these bells, at the temple we visited the following day.)

It was another interesting and spectacular temple, and while I can see why some people may feel that once you see one temple, you've seen them all, I don't personally subscribe to that notion. I think they all have their own individual charm, and will continue to check them out. The undoubted highlight of the day came with a spot of dusk archery at the foot of the mountain. Hey, archery is hard! I never knew that! Here is a video showing me in all my Robin Hood glory, missing the target by a mile. Watch the pint-size granny scoff at my incompetence, flippantly fire herself a bullseye, and signal her disappointment in my skills! Christ she's only been practicing for about 90 years the cheeky beggar.

(Possibly what the "Ents" might look like had Lord of the Rings been an LSD road movie)

(Back at the plush Ganghwa-do bus terminal, I marvelled at the seating area!)

In preparation for a ferry journey to a neighbouring island on Day 2, we caught a bus to the tiny little fishing village of Oepo-ri (Way-poe-ree), on the West coast of the island. We chose the nearest yeogwan (love motels...remember?), which turned out to be absolutely fantastic, better than about 80% of hotels I've stayed in, and for £10 each a night. Ridiculously brilliant. Which is where I will start off in Part Two. Unless we get shot visiting the DMZ (Demilitarized Zone) on Saturday. Bye!

(Oh the guy in the top photo either has inwardly pointing sideways feet, or just no bloody feet. The poor sole!)