Jeju-do Day Two: Chris Vs The Volcano

I really can't explain why I like mountains. Most people must think I'm some kind of mong, but it's cheap, keeps the belly at bay, and always rewarding in terms of scenery and a sense of achievement. And seriously, once you feel mentally and physically exhausted, getting drunk afterwards feels magical. On this particular day, the post-hike plan was set in stone, and much anticipated. My glorious room in the Tapdong Motel contained a MASSIVE bath, and, obviously, beer in the bath after a climb was going to be legendary. Not actually bathing in beer, although that would be nice also, but drinking it. Maybe that's what heaven is like.

Getting up at around 7am to beat the crowds, I loaded up on water and Polos, and waited for the cross-island bus, which turned out to come at 90 minute intervals. As I was to find out later today, "90 minute intervals" is actually more like, "whenever the driver feels like it, in between naps".

So, Halla-san..... It's a big volcano, standing 1950m high, the highest peak in South Korea. There are bigger ones in the North, but it's a bit difficult to get there, and possibly not advisable. The crater holds a lake called Baengnokdam ("White Deer Lake"), which can be 2km in circumference, and 100m deep, depending on the season. As you probably know, we are right in the middle of rainy season, so this lake should look quite spectacular at this sub alpine level. Folklore had it that benevolent wizards existed on the mountain, and that they entertained themselves at the lake crater while riding on white deer. Which sounds fun.

With my firm belief that a hike should be a gruelling and punishing affair, I chose the second hardest of the 4 main trails, the Eorimok Course. This proved to be a bad choice, as I soon learned at the trailhead that this trail was closed at 1710m, as was one of the others. Given the infrequent buses, and limited access roads, it was far too late to attempt to get around to the other trails, so, feeling fairly dejected, I set off for my poofish 1710m goal. To begin with, you couldn't really see any huge peaks, as they were all over and beyond some smaller peaks, within the park interior.



The first third of the trail runs through dense forest, and is a constantly steep and demanding course. Signs warned the unwary traveller of the dangers of the snakes and insects present on the mountain. Halla-san is said to have quite a unique blend of ecosystems, as you rise from the island's sub-tropical system to the sub-alpine region near the top. Jeju-do hosts noticeably larger, and more abundant, insects and reptiles, and the trail was frequently interrupted by curious black and red spiders. I was excited at the prospect of being attacked by a snake, but didn't see any.



After the steep climb through the forest, I emerged onto vast grassy plains of volcanic rock, and realised I was at cloud level. I had read that Halla-san is covered by cloud more often than not, so with the fortuity of blue sky still above me, I quickened my step before the whole area was shrouded in mist. At this point, the TK Maxx hiking boots reminded me painfully of their cheapness, not coping too admirably with the jagged, black rocks. Thankfully, intermittent walkways eased the pain a little.



With my previous record being our very own Ben Nevis, at 1344m, it was nice to see this sign. Although, I really don't think I started at sea-level, to be fair. Similarly to Nevis actually, the final ascent, in this case a monstrously steep crater, didn't become visible until near the end, and was quite a breathtaking sight. It's just a shame I knew that my journey would end at the foot of it. But, seriously, the pictures do not do justice to how massive and imposing this crater appears. The final ascent must be shockingly difficult.




I never expected to find a thistle on top of a volcano on a tropical Asian island. How bizarre!





I had the obligatory lunch and photo session, and right after that, as if on cue, thick clouds barrelled through the surrounding peaks, and visibility was reduced to about 2 metres in front of your face! On the way back down, I passed about 50 different school/scouts/taekwondo trips, once again highlighting the necessity of starting these trips early. "Hello!". "Nice to meet you!". "How are you?". "Where are you from?"...ad infinitum. I still usually enjoy these exchanges, and tend to stop for a wee chat. But, the thought of getting pished in my bath made me less conversational than usual.

Being a masochist, I returned to the carpark about 3 hours ahead of schedule, so decided to climb an adjacent peak, the name of which escapes me. That way, I could justify some boozing, I thought. It turned out to be a good idea, as it provided me with a good view beyond the first peaks and of the crater itself. Look hard at the next picture and you'll see it, miles in the distance, I was up there! OK, OK, not the very top, I know......but I will return!



I waited 90 minutes for the bus. Nothing. Another 30 minutes, still nothing. It was absolutely roasting, and foolishness meant i had not invested in any sun block, so I was forced to don the wicker hat I had purchased in the bus station. Unfortunately, it was too late, and my face had turned purple. After a while, a Korean lady pulled up, and despite her knowing zero English, we managed to converse adequately enough in Korean to secure myself a lift back to Shin Jeju. This was close enough for me, and preferable to waiting on the probably pished bus driver to come past eventually. The lady turned out to be utterly demented, and I could not wait to exit the vehicle, but thanks anyway Jeju woman, you're a legend!



Aaaah after celebrating with with beer and bath, I went along for some meat, amazing the locals with my beetroot face. Then, I bumped into some other foreigners, bought more beer, and got wrecked on the esplanade. At one point, we were corralled into a hotel nightclub, which resembled a largescale Phoenix Nights, complete with a Korean Elvis impersonator onstage. It was mesmerising and atrocious in equal measure, so it was a shame to learn it was 40,000W just to sit down at a table. Unfortunately, we escaped so fast I forgot to take a picture, let alone a video, but it was a memorable end to a fantastic day.

I'll finish with a picture taken on the following day, but relevant nonetheless, as, from a distance, you can see the more typical volcano form of Halla-san. Well, it's half-time with the whole Jeju adventure. Before days 3 and 4 are posted, it's time for more random issues. Such as..... Pentaport Rock Festival, the dog cafe, many genius noraebang moments, Northy's leaving night. On that note, it's more of a leaving all-dayer, so I better get ready. As if sorry to bid farewell to her favourite adopted son, Korea has parted her clouds and blessed our day with blue skies. I'm sure the feeling is mutual!