Gyeongbokgung Palace

We went to see Gyeongbokgung Palace last Saturday, which was the main palace during the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910). One of five palaces in Seoul, it has a tumultuous 500 year history. It was built by the founding King of Joseon dynasty, Lee Seong-Gye, in 1395 as he moved the capital city from Gyeseong to Seoul. Located in the northern part of Seoul, it is sometimes called “Bukgwol.” It underwent various reconstructions and eventually ended up as a massive 330 building complex. Standing on 410,000 square meters of land, it was a symbol of majesty for the Korean people and the home of the royal family. On the south side is the main gate Gwanghwamun. To the north, Sinmumun, east, Yeongchumun, and west, Geonchunmun. In 1910, when the Korea-Japan Treaty was signed, Japan tore down all the Jeongak buildings in the south area and built their Command Center on the spot. The Japanese building has now been dismantled and the palace is in the process of being restored.

Another notable part of this excursion, was that it was our first time using the subway, and our first time penetrating the monster of Seoul. I knew it was a big city, and I figured it was probably 8th or 9th in the world, but I did a bit of googling yesterday and, depending on which website you choose, it's actually either the biggest, 2nd, or 3rd biggest! So it is a little more intimidating learning how to use the transport systems in such a huge place when you can't ask a single seoul for help! See what I did there? It had to happen sooner or later!

Anyway, the subway stops right beside the palace, and just as we entered the grounds we realised we had luckily arrived for the ceremonial changing of the guard. The other thing that strikes you, are the mountains dominating the landscape behind the palace. I'm a big fan of mountains, I have no idea why, and these ones ranked quite highly in the way they had totally their own oriental character to them. Obviously, we're not talking the Banff Rockies here, but they are very dramatic and bizarre in their own way and I can't wait to get up to one of the numerous National Parks! The changing of the guard was very colouful and authentic, giving you a good feel of the regal pomp and ceremony employed in these days. They marched right through the throng of assembled onlookers (there were some other "White-Devil's" there too!) to the aggressive thump of two following drummers, and it was a very impressive sight!
Outside the front gate, the massive Gwanghwamun, we had the opportunity to pose alongside the guards, but due to a combination of their expressionless, harsh faces, and the long bladed weapons they carried, I was somewhat relauctant to go in for a full "Best Buddy" picture. Interestingly, the REAL security guards governing the palace were carrying samurai swords! Yes we really are a long way from home!



This picture shows the main courtyard between Gwanghwamun and the second gate, which probably has a funky name as well. The middle elevated path is only to be walked on by the King, but he's long dead so we skipped gaily down it to the main entrance.
As you would expect, the colours and architecture of these buildings are all beautiful and fulfil every expectation you carry of the far east.
From here on in, I'll just comment on the pictures, and spare you a load of reading! The actual whole complex is like a self-contained town, and as you walk around you can easily imagine the palace in full operation. The streets have a maze-like feel to them, that would have been wicked for a bit of 14th century "man-hunt"! These schoolgirls wouldn't shift from that archway where they must have taken 50 photos. Another stereotypical Asian image that has turned out to be true, is that everywhere you look, there are giggling schoolgirls (usually at us), and businessmen in suits (often drunk).


This is the regal throne room within the main palace building, as seen at the top of the page. It has a much more chilled out vibe than, say, the House of Commons or the White House. Here, the King would address his generals and discuss state matters. They would all kneel on cushions on the ground, with the sweet smell of incense sharing the atmosphere with the chiming of bells. I imagine if todays world leaders discussed world affairs in similar surroundings, things would be fine. However, we are reminded of Korea's war-torn past by the rows of samurai swords placed behind each cushion.


The larger building below is called Gyeonghoeru, and is classed as a National Treasure in itself. It was rebuilt in 1412, and is where official banquets were held and foreign envoys entertained. This is considered the best example of the advanced architecture of Joseon dynasty pavilions, which used 48 huge granite pillars. Unfortunately, you can only see four, as my mountain fetish overrided any interest in architecture I may have. The smaller picture is of a little pavilion in the palace garden.




















Here's me at the entrance to the Korean National Folk Museum, which was at the rear of the palace grounds. Due to time constraints we didn't make it inside, and plan to return to it in a few months as it looked very cool. Luckily there were numerous outdoor exhibits for us to check out, and it was all very interesting.









We found a circle of stone statues depicting each oriental New Year character, so it was clearly neccesary to pose with the good old Ram/Sheep/Goat, the patron of those of us born in 1979. Noone else tried to actually imitate their particular animal, so I'm a bit of a twat.


Remember back in the day, when we thought we might have been headed to Jeju island to live? Well, it's probably a blessing in disguise, but it meant we wouldn't get to see the many "Dolhareubang" ("stone grandfathers", commonly found on the island. The museum seem to have pinched some though, and they were all fairly comical. They are supposed to fend off evil spirits, but I'm sure you agree they don't look all that threatening.







I don't actually know what these wooden chaps do, but check out the pimp in the middle with the beard!






We didn't have time to delve any deeper, but one outdoor section celebrated the importance of "Phallicity" in Korean folk culture. These rocks were carved in the hope of the family conceiving a son. There was much more to it than that, but in the meantime you'll just have to make do with this spectacularly carved knob!


Ever since that weekend we have been pretty busy with stuff, so I haven't achieved that goal of more regular, smaller posts quite yet! Which is a shame, as there's something funny or random happening most days which I can never remember!

After the palace, we went back to Jungsan and got pished locally, this time I was a bit more sensible with the dreaded Soju, and we had a good night in a few of the Hofs. I decided, after numerous beers, and once the more preferable nibbles had ran out, that the strips of dried seaweed on the table are not actually as putrid as I first thought. I believe there is a picture of me using a piece of it for a possibly tasteless "Hitler" moustache photograph, which is probably roughly when the Soju kicked in. Also in the next entry, you can here how an old Korean guy presumed Lynne to be a Russian prostitute, and was definitely angling for some action!

Well, we have our Visa run to Osaka tomorrow, which has been predictably rushed and disorganised! I keep waiting for our school to screw us over at some point, but after some checking, they have booked us into a very nice hotel, and presented us with a huge bundle of Won for all our travelling and meals! Also of course, we get Thursday and Friday off school! Oh how I will miss being punched in the balls, having every prop stolen and thrown about, having everything I write on the board wiped off as I chase the prop thieves around, and having to wipe little Mikeys nose. Despite those things, the teaching is still good fun.

Next update on Sunday!